The Sensory Value of Commodity: Homogenization and Differentiation of Pigs and Pork in Okinawa, Japan

Abstract

This article examines the cultural meaning of food production in industrialized Okinawa, Japan, focusing on the commoditization of pigs and pork products. Commoditization manipulates sensory attributes such as colors, scents and textures for commercial purposes. The sensory values I discuss here relate to commercial value which manipulates sensory attributes such as colors, scents and textures. I describe ethnographically how pigs and pork are commoditized in a local pig farm and marketplace, and reveal the sensory aspects of food business. In the case of Okinawa, pigs and pork are regarded as one of the most important domestic animals and foods in the context of ritual as well as everyday life. This position is linked to the manipulation of the sensory qualities today. The purpose of this article is, through an analysis of the cultural codes behind sensory manipulation, to forward an anthropological understanding of this food business in its local context.